I spend most days tinkering with new recipes, so when it’s time to eat dinner, there are usually whole meals left over from that morning’s testing to eat, or various ingredients to puzzle into a dinner. Some of those use-what-I’ve-got situations give me an idea for a new recipe, and the cycle continues.
But! Every season brings a handful of dishes that are non-negotiables, meals I have to make regardless of what’s already in the fridge. It wouldn’t be summer without charred bits, bread soaked in salad juice, and sprightly herbs and vegetables, all of which are captured in the five dishes that follow. Some tweaks are included for each, too: Like many New York Times Cooking readers, I don’t always follow recipes exactly.